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Ok i am at work i am trying to find some acrylic paint so i can try some hand painted faceplates while my airbrush comes through lol if any of you are bored out there i dont know what i am looking for so i am after some paints that would be suitable for handpaint on ebay.co.uk it has to be .co.uk as i live in england and it will come to me much quicker.
Sorry to be a pain lol
Elliot
I have the best luck with water based model paints, like Testors. Then I have some of those cheap, multicolored kits like you'd get at a craft store. I wouldn't paint a whole plate them them though. They don't keep their elasticity when they dry. They get brittle and flake off. For something small, like detail work where I need a bunch of colors but not a large amount like a spray can, they're fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite-Concepts
hey guys, i was checking this post out..very nice by the way, i just graduated from auto body school and when we were painting plastics, we would also use adhesion promoter to get the paints to stick really well, also a red scotch bright pad is equivalent to 400 grit dry sand paper which we used to scuff and rough up the surface for a great mechanical bond. the pad helped also to get into contoured areas without worrying about burning through the finishes. and if you want your clear coat to harden faster, you can heat it up, it will be softer while it is warm, but when it cools down, it will be really strong. then if you really wanted to get some shine, you could take 1500 grit or 3000 grit wet, then buff it till its smooth as glass. btw that space ghost faceplate is bad ass!
Some good info like mong, thanks for sharing :cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by like mong
ditto on the info like mong, I follow a similar procedure. I use a scotch pad and 400 grit wet sandpaper to roughen up the plate, then I use an adhesion promoter from Bulldog that is designed for plastics. I get it at the local O'rielly's auto store. (If I am painting a chrome case, I use an adhesion promoter from House of Kolor, and this requires a spray gun.) I apply a clear over the promoter as a bonding coat and roughen the surface with a scotch pad after it dries, (about 12 hours). This provides me a good surface to paint on.
I use Auto Air paints from Createx, (www.autoaircolors.com), and an airbrush. I have used acrylics from the tube as well, (liqutex), and a brush for detail work. If you do not have access to airbrushes and spray guns, paint for a can will work; although, I would stick to something designed for plastic. It is also a good idea to wash the faceplate with soap and water before sanding it.
Probably way more info than you wanted... Also check out Spacey's tutorial. Killer information there.
I have used different clears for different plates, depending on client preferences. This all depends on the durability you want. If you use a rattle can clear, make sure it is a decent brand and I would recommend testing the paint and clear on something other than the faceplate before final application... Duplicolor, (www.duplicolor.com), will work but is not a thick clear. There is another one that works well, but is a bit expensive... Instant Clear Coat from Dominion Sure Seal, Ltd, (http://www.dominionsureseal.com/prod...d=112&catid=31), is really good and when applied correctly, can be finish sanded and polished. I would avoid the Walmart brand or off-brand clears... Remember, you are generally going to get what you pay for. Triple-thick glaze from Krylon is also an option... Although I have no experience with it on faceplates.
For almost all of my work, I use a two-part clear for automotive use. I mix it and apply it with a spray gun in a booth. This allows the most protection, shine, and the ability to "bury" the graphics. After this dries for 12 hours, I finish sand and polish by hand or a buffer. You have to be VERY careful if polishing with a buffer or you will burn right through and be starting all over...