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Thread: Could the same be done with controllers?

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  1. #1

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    I used to have a bunch of the original "Duke" controllers that I was going to repaint, and gave up on the idea. I did keep one of the clear plastic windows from the logo that will end up on a HAL-9000 faceplate.
    Faceplates at Hidden Content
    Kinect at Hidden Content .

  2. #2
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    If you clear coat the controller with and automotive clear coat with a flex additive you`ll never have a problem with it wearing off, and if it dulls out from use you can polish it out. It sounds funny but its the truth, everybody on here puts so much thought and time into painting these faceplates its just a shame that there are very few people protecting their hard work with a quality top coat. All you would need is a cheap touch up gun and a small compressor, hell you could even use and airbrush in a pinch. Thats just my .02 cents

  3. #3
    One Red Hot BAMF
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dreadog View Post
    If you clear coat the controller with and automotive clear coat with a flex additive you`ll never have a problem with it wearing off, and if it dulls out from use you can polish it out. It sounds funny but its the truth, everybody on here puts so much thought and time into painting these faceplates its just a shame that there are very few people protecting their hard work with a quality top coat. All you would need is a cheap touch up gun and a small compressor, hell you could even use and airbrush in a pinch. Thats just my .02 cents
    Thanks a ton. Do you think something like this would work?

    I'm mighty low on cash right now, can't go spending a ton on an air compressor and airbrush (though I have been looking into it for a year...). I just purchased a dremel
    My Faceplates: The one that came with my 360
    My Games: Gears of War, Lost Planet, Rainbow Six Vegas, Guitar Hero II, Def Jam: Icon, Halo 3, Viva Pinata, CoD2, Dead Rising, Perfect Dark, PGR3, Big Bumpin', Sneak King, Pocket Bike Racer, and Rockstar's Table Tennis
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    If any of these games has a multiplayer that you want to play (even if no one plays it any more!) send me a message on XBL and we'll play!!!

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  4. #4

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    Well, I have an airbrush and a compressor now. Let me know exactly what I need and I'll do it. I need name brands, part numbers - whatever. I've never worked with automotive stuff at all, before.
    Faceplates at Hidden Content
    Kinect at Hidden Content .

  5. #5
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    That would be better than nothing, but I would strongly recommend using a catalyzed clear coat. The aerosol cans really dont do a whole lot except leave a transparent coating to wear through before the color starts to wear down, but a good urethane catalyzed clear will last forever as long as its applied correctly.

  6. #6
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    I would recommend Sherwin williams Ultra 7000 clear coat. I`ve been using this for 7 years now and I wouldn`t use anything else. Its very user friendly, holds a nice shiny gloss, and has the flex additive built into the clear where as other companys make the flex a separate additive to buy.
    1 quart CC930 clear coat- $54
    1 pint UH904 hardener-$41
    1 quart US-1 reducer-$14

    1 3M respirator-$25

    I know this seems expensive but it will be worth it, and that 1 quart of clear you could probably clearcoat 300-400 faceplates. So its pretty much and investment that will last a long time and give you the best finish and protection to all of your hard work. AND THE RESPIRATOR IS A MUST!!!!!

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